Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Success Without Happiness

When all is said and done, success without happiness is the worst kind of failure
                                                                               --Louis Binstock

I happened across this quote a few days ago and was immediately taken by the magnitude of which it suggests.  As someone who considers himself a borderline workaholic, I am always cognicent of the effects of my chosen career on my family, my personal psyche and my physical health.  Work or work related activities always seem to pull me away from the things that are most important to me.  It doesnt help when one of the activities I love most is creating with food as my medium and solving complex logistical issues while serving food at its greatest...but, I digress...

Through a series of personal events over the last few months, the concept of happiness has been put at the forefront of my thinking.  Too often, too many people trod through life pushing for a professional victory or business success only to find that, while successful, they aren't terribly happy.  For many years I pushed through physically gruelling work schedules, unhealthy toxic professional relationships and unrealistic personal goals that kept me from being truely happy.  I justified my personal unhappiness with the rationalization that if I received just one more success in my business or some other professional validation, then happiness would come.  I didnt mind working that extra shift or missing a random family event because I believed there would always be another get together or time in the future for myself.

I will leave the judgement of my past actions to others...most likely my children.  However, I can say unequivically that regardless of how much I love my chosen profession; no matter how single-moment fulfilling it was to conquer that last meal service, professional success, for me anyway, NEVER translates to the feeling of sustained personal happiness. 

I consider myself fortunate to have found many professional successes relatively early in life.  I no longer feel the need to prove myself to anyone or to push for the NEXT BIG THING unless it is something I want to push for.  I have relative freedom to choose my own path at this point.  But the opportunity cost to the manner in which I achieved my professional winnings have been the physical and emotional toll placed on my personal happiness.

My advice to any aspiring chef or future leader is to find what makes you happy FIRST.  Then figure out a way to be successful in spite of it.  Your business and your career will be thankful for it.

Jamaican Rum BBQ Sauce

This recipe was developed for an event that featured a prominent liquor distributor who wanted to feature their products in the menu as much as possible.  While I am not real fond of the rum this distributor requested we use, I have found this recipe useful with most any dark, full-bodied rums available.  I call it a BBQ Sauce but, when cooked to completion, this should be used more like a finishing sauce...brushed on the meat a few minutes before completion.  I usually serve a bit more on the side as well.

    • 1 bottle, 750ml, of any dark spiced rum.
    • 3 quarts of pineapple juice (2-#5 cans)
    • 1 quart brown sugar
    • 2 1/2 cups molasses
    • 1/2 cup pickling spice
    • 1T crushed red pepper flakes
    • 1 cup sweet chili sauce
Combine all the ingredients in a wide sauce pan or stock pot and reduce by at least half over medium heat.  Simmer the mixture until the sauce is of the desired consistency or it easily coats the back of a metal spoon.  The culinary term for a liquid coating the back of a spoon is NAPPE...if you care.

Strain the sauce through a fine mesh screen and cool for use.  I like to baste chicken or smoked pork ribs with this sauce right before they get finished on the grill.  Also makes a pretty good dip for chicen fingers.

oh...this recipe makes a ton so you might want to reduce it a bit.

Monday, November 28, 2011

Savory Apple and Cheddar Bread Pudding

I first began experimenting with the flavors of apple and cheddar while in Vermont;  an area well known for both apples and cheese.  While there are many local cheese makers nowadays who make really great products, I am still partial to Cabot Cheddar

Recipe for a Savory Apple and Cheddar Bread Pudding goes great with roast pork tenderloin or even a grilled chicken and is perfect as the cold weather starts to set in.
    • 5 apples, I like gala, medium diced
    • 1 small onion, small diced
    • 3 oz clarified butter or regular butter...don't sweat it if you don't have clarified
    • 1/2 cup loose packed fresh chopped sage
    • 1/2 bunch fresh parsley, chopped
    • 1 pound of country white bread, diced
    • 6 cups heavy cream
    • 12 eggs
    • 2 cups shredded white cheddar, I like Cabot...sharper the better!
    • salt and fresh ground black pepper
Sweat the onions and apple in butter until just soft.  Do not brown.  Fold in the sage and parsley and remove from heat.  Cool slightly while dicing the bread, shredding the cheese and preparing the rest of the ingredients.  Combine the cream and eggs and pour over the diced bread.  Let this mixture stand for 10-15 minutes to completely soften the bread.  Add the cooled apples and shredded cheddar and toss gently to mix the ingredients.  I like to place the mixture into heavily greased large sized muffin tins. This will ensure everyone gets the correct amount of crispy edges and also will help with plate presentation.  Bake at 300 degrees until just set.

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Lull Before the Storm

The weekend after Thanksgiving is always bittersweet. The pre-holiday events are over and we all got some much needed rest and family time. Starting next week, the holiday rush will be in full swing. With all the stressors associated with running (or,should i say, attempting to control) a busy foodservice company during the holidays, I find terribly difficult to keep the season in perspective.

Longstanding clients who want the same thing every year and those who want something new, new clients expecting to be wowed, marketing 'thank you' freebies, end of year events, bids for next year, charity functions, employees burning out vacation time, overworked crew, end of year accountings and comparisons all culminate into the next three weeks of hurried frenzy. At some point personal shopping time will need to be integrated into the schedule as will the occasional personal holiday party. No wonder food folks always enter the holidays with trepidation.

I will spend my last few hours of intermission pouring over a few long forgotten cookbooks while enjoying the occasional sounds of the house peeking around the corner. Maybe tomorrow I will do some cooking.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

The Family Meal

My favorite part of any family meal is immediately after dinner when the busy sounds of post dinner cleanup are drifting through the house. Sitting at the table, my dog waiting patiently at the foot of my chair, I absorb the sights and sounds of the family dynamic. Four generations of women sitting around the table listening intently to the my youngest recite the latest Spanish words she learned at Montessori. My oldest is somewhat reluctantly helping the others with dish and clean up duty.

This is my moment of zen...movement, sound and time happen but goes un-noticed. Deep decisions are made but not registered but I don't mind. I am happy. Happy Thanksgiving.

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Thanksgiving Menu

We are celebrating Thanksgiving early this year.  My family had a large extended family feast on Sunday.  About 30 people came representing 4 generations of my Family along with a couple close friends as well as my grandma's caretaker (who seems to be a family friend at this point).  I believe my second cousin was the youngest at 3 years old and my father's mother, at 84 years, was the oldest.  The menu was fairly traditional with many of the guests bringing a dish of some sort. 

I brought a hickory smoked brisket that was slow smoked for seven hours.  Also brought some potato cakes prepared with scallions and flat leaf parsley.

My wife's family will be joining us for a Thanksgiving feast tomorrow to allow for more family to be present.  Of course the meal will be held at my home and, thanks to my mother-in-law, a great cook in her own right, the bar is set high.  I enjoy cooking for her more than anyone else in my family because she gets it.  She understands what it takes to prepare a family meal of this magnitude, appreciates the intricacies and nuance of the food prepared and really savors the actual food for what it is.  Sure, the others appreciate a good meal and seem to genuinely enjoy the experience but She just gets it. I often find my self wondering if she would approve of a certain dish...even in a professional setting.

This Thanksgiving seems to hold particular importance for me.  Having experienced both a bit of extended family turmoil and a relatively serious health scare in the last few months, I have really come to appreciate the family network.  The concept of a strong, cohesive family safety net has been re-energized within my family.  Thats a good thing.

Thanksgiving Menu for Tomorrow...so far:
Applewood Smoked Tenderloin of Beef
Slow Braised Pork Shoulder with Cider
Brown Sugar Roasted Acorn Squash
Caramelized Brussels Sprouts with Tasso
Sauteed Green Beans with Brown Butter and Pecans
Cornbread and Chorizo Stuffing
Traditional Bread Stuffing with Fresh Sage (garlic too!)
Corn Gratinee
Mashed Yukon Potatoes
Caesar Salad
Pumpkin Pie (hopefully with crystallized ginger)
Pear and Cranberry-Gingerbread Crisp
Vanilla Scented Whipped Cream

Yes, its turkey free!







Monday, November 21, 2011

The Prep List

When a young chef or civilian cook asks me what the hardest part of cooking professionally is, my answer almost alway gravitates to back to the prep list. A seasoned chef can tell much by the way another chef manages and manipulates a prep list. Sloppy, partial prep list that only looks at the immediate next meal = a sloppy unorganized chef who will always be surprised when something goes wrong. A chef's prep list which is meticulous and well thought out conveys a technician who understands the organization and determination required to be a top chef.
Even though I have been out of the day to day kitchen routine, I still get the opportunity to put the pencil down and work my knife. Last week, I had the opportunity to be in the kitchen while my chef (my chef...how can one 'have' a chef?) is on vacation.

My prep list for the day:

  • 270 potato scallion cakes, large
  • 260 potato scallion cakes, small
  • 1 gallon slow roast tomato relish
  • 3 gallon walnut pesto
  • 3 gallon tomato-vodka sauce
  • 10lb garlic sausage
  • 15 lbs orrechiette
  • 15 lbs cavatappi
  • 10 lbs shredded Pecorino
  • 2 gal Grilled Tomato Salsa
  • 1 gallon Southwest Flavored Bean Purée
  • 2 quarts Roast Pepper Relish
  • 50 lbs Hickory Smoke Brisket
  • 150 Peppercorn-Garlic Rubbed Pork Tenderloin Steaks
  • 120 seared fresh Salmon Fillet
  • 2 gallon Green Peppercorn Sauce
  • 3 gallon Roast Shallot Vinaigrette
  • 18 lb Herbed Compound Butter
  • 10 lb cut and fry Tortillas
  • 2 quarts Bourbon BBQ Sauce
  • 12 lb Crumbled Chevre
  • Cheese Display for 280
  • Vegetable Display for 400
  • 2 quarts Parmesan Peppercorn Dip
  • 2 quarts Roast Red Pepper Dip
  • 200 Spanikopeta
  • 700 Ginger Glazed Meatballs
  • 48 lbs of Green Beans

Thursday, November 17, 2011

Food Journals

Since culinary school, I have been keeping a notebook, many notebooks at this point, of recipes and combinations that I found useful.  If you were to look at my notebooks you would know that you reached a particularly successful recipe by the appearance of the page.  If the page had side notes or indiscriminate food stains all over, then you will know that page was referenced often.  As a young chef, I was very possessive of my notebook;  never leaving it unattended.  Nowadays, I am happy to share the contents…I usually have to translate it though.

IMG_3276                 IMG_3277

Up until this blog, this is as close to a diary that I have every been.  The pictures below are from a menu brainstorming session most likely while sitting at the bar after service.  Those times, after service when the area chefs would get together to talk shop and mix it up with whoever was left in the bar, were always very special to me.  Regardless of rank or pedigree, everyone was equal.

photo     photo2

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Homemade Catsup

I have always been fascinated by the thought of making an item that most people would never even consider making themselves. This recipe was developed when I worked at the Norwich Inn in Norwich, VT. We got into a rather obsessive groove making all different types of sausages; fresh, cured, smoked, traditional, trendy….it didn’t matter. If it could be ground and stuffed into a casing, we made it. We spent 3 weeks perfecting the perfect hot dog recipe. As soon as I saw someone squirt some Heinz all over my house made dog, I knew something had to be done.
    • 2 Large Onions, Diced
    • 1/4 Cup of Chopped Garlic
    • 8 Tomatoes, Cored and Diced
    • 4 Cups of Tomato Paste
    • 1 Quart of Cider Vinegar
    • 2 Cups of Water
    • 1 Cup Golden Raisins
    • 1 Cup Molasses
    • 1 Cup Brown Sugar
    • 2T Allspice
    • 1/4 Cup Worcestershire Sauce
    • 1 Dried Chipotle Pepper, Whole is fine
    • Pinch of Ground Clove
    • Salt and Pepper
Sweat the onion and garlic until translucent. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for 1 hour. While the mixture is still hot, puree everything and strain through a fine strainer. Cool to room temperature and check for flavor. Now is the time to adjust seasoning. Cover and chill for service. Its always best to serve this at room temperature…with fries.

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Espresso-Peppercorn Rub for Beef

For my first recipe posted to this site, I chose a recipe I have used off and on for nearly 10 years.  First used when I worked at the Hanover Inn in Hanover, NH, this rub has made it on the menu of every place I have worked since.  This is a great go-to spice rub for bold, flavorful meats…I prefer to use it on whole roasts rather than individual portions.  However you choose to use it, do resist the temptation to make a batch ahead of time.
    • 1 Cup Fresh Ground Black Peppercorns
    • 1 Cup Fresh Ground Espresso
    • 1/2 Cup Dark Brown Sugar
    • 1/4 Cup Smoked Salt
Mix all the ingredients until well blended.  Rub evenly over entire piece of meat.  Let the rub rest on the roast for at least an hour to allow the sugar and salt to react to the product.  However you finish your product, use high heat to help form a nice crust.
steak-cooked-with-coffee-rub 

A Blog about Nothing in Particular...except mostly food

I have toyed with the idea of writing or creating some sort of outlet for the thoughts and ideas that run through my head over the course of a day.  Often these thoughts are fleeting and don’t stay with me much longer than it takes for me to register that it even existed.  Others, like the savory taste of mushrooms sauteed with roasted garlic, linger for a bit and actually change something, on a molecular level, in my brain. 
I have no idea if anyone will read this…much less even enjoy what I place within the confines of this arena.  On many levels, I don’t really give a damn!  But, in that area of my psyche where I yearn for recognition, I hope you do find this space to be, at the minimum, fleetingly entertaining…kind of like that time when you attempted to make marshmallows.
What will I put on this site?  I don’t rightly know.  I am a food guy.  I am obsessed with flavor, food and flavor combinations and the techniques involved with providing great food and service.  More importantly, I am married to my best friend, have 3 cool children and genuinely want to leave my community a better place for the next round of inhabitants.
So….here goes.  Check back from time to time,  leave the occasional comment and share this blog with others if you feel compelled to do so.