Reflections on the Past Year...Not Culinary Related

As we enter this last week of 2012, I find myself reflecting on the ending year and planning out the next.  Looking back on the year makes me realize just how important my family is.  Death, divorce, health scares, health triumphs, funny episodes, scary times, difficult decisions and failed plans have all swirled together 'perfect storm' style to force me to slow down and reflect on what is really important.  My family, from my children to my ancestors' past, is the absolute most important part of my life.  2012 has made me appreciate trivial tasks such as the quiet time a short car ride with my wife provides, the wonder my youngest experiences when making cheese-pie (cheesecake), the unique conversations (and subsequent twists) I have with my son, and the realization that helping my oldest rehab yet another knee surgery may be the last time she presents herself as actually needing my help.  Through the lens of 2012, these everyday life happenings have given me new perspective and wisdom. 

While not always perfect, I try to keep every event in proper perspective.  Is there something I can do to effect change?  Will this help me see what is most important?  Does this make me happy or does it cause me stress?  Does your problem really have anything to do with me?...These are all questions I try to force myself to answer whenever life is starting to get difficult...Does it lead me down the right path?  Not always.  More often than not though, I like to feel my path is headed straight.

I have been a big fan of the TED talks and find myself returning many times to this particular presentation by Ric Elias on the things he learned when his plane crashed.  I hope it you find it as thought provoking as I.

I have no idea what 2013 will bring to me or my family.  I do know that whatever life throws our way, we will emerge stronger and more resolute than ever.  People will change...most for the better...new experiences will present themselves...and thats OK.  I look forward to the journey. 

Happy Holidays

Just want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas.  If you celebrate a different holiday, I hope it was joy filled and everything you had imagined.


If you are looking for a quick holiday recipe for a last minute party, try making Eggnog.  The folks over at ExpertVillage on Youtube posted this video:

Also, while you are at it, make a couple last minute gifts in your spare time:

Celebrity Farming

One of my morning routines is I troll the interwebs for interesting food and culinary articles.  This morning, I came across an interesting blog post on Huffington Post about the rising popularity of farming within the American food scene.  For reasons yet to be disclosed, I am very interested in this subject.

I urge you to read the post.

The Era of the Celebrity Farmer  by Catherine Gustafson

I'm Back!

It certainly has been quite a long time since I have posted.  While the reasons are many and I will perhaps write a bit about my absence in future posts, I want to get right back to posting. 

A little while back, we catered a wonderful dinner for the Hoogland Center for the Arts.  It was their annual fundraising gala.  Here are a couple pictures from the meal.



Shaved Parma Ham with Watercress-Fennel Salad, Smoked Tomato Coulis, Roasted Garlic and Olives

 

 

 

 

Vanilla Bean Custard with Fresh Berries and Rioja Syrup.  Served in a Caramel Basket

That is all for now.  I am making it a priority to post with greater regularity.

Taking a break

Its been a few weeks since I have posted any updates on this site.  So far, I have spent this summer working on a couple new community endeavors, hanging out with my wife and kids and doing a small bit of traveling.  Over the last few weeks, I have been to Northern Wisconsin twice for camping, been white water rafting, saw my Brother-In-Law play (he's a musician) at Millennium Park in Chicago in front of a few thousand fans, nearly got into a brawl (group of boy scout dads vs. seemingly intoxicated restaurant owner) and spent an unusually quiet Fourth of July.  My son and I are busy preparing for a 8 day canoeing trip to the Minnesota Boundary Waters...my first canoeing trip and my longest camping endeavor to date. 

Recently, I was chosen to receive two great recognitions.  I was honored to be chosen as the featured chef in Springfield Scene's Chef Scene section of their current issue.  It is nice to see recognition for your professional actions.  Additionally, I was awarded the Service Above Self award by my Rotary Club.  This is of particular importance to me as I believe it is especially crucial that everyone gives to their greater community in some meaningful way.  While I certainly feel that there are much more deserving people to receive such recognition, I am honored none the less.

I have been working on a few conceptual pieces for new dishes over my absence.  Specifically, I have been thinking of ways to incorporate some of the traditional dishes I have had recently enjoyed into a form that is fitting for my catering operation.  Specifically, I had this wonderful Scotch Egg at an upscale tavern in Chicago.  It was nicely prepared and presented in such a way that I felt the comfort of such a simple dish yet enjoyed the 'modernness' the presentation conveyed.  Accompanied by a rather acidic Mustard Sabayon, it didn't feel heavy at all.

Perhaps in a couple days, I will have some of these new recipes to share...


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Teamwork



Pork Collaborative:  Charcoal Grilled Tenderloin of Pork, Braised Pork Belly, Tasso-Port Reduction and Smoked Bacon Crisp.  Served with Fresh Corn Griddle Cake, Sauteed Greens and Spring Vegetables.

 

Yesterday, we took part in an extraordinary event, A Feast for the Senses, with David Cane and Paul Wertico...two phenomenal musicians with a penchant for bending the rules a bit.  This event not only provided me with a much needed boost back to my culinary roots but also gave my crew the opportunity to realize the power of our team.  When an event like this comes your way, it forces you to put your differences aside and focus, collectively, on a single goal.  All the individual personality differences...varying motivations and life goals...must be put aside to attain something bigger than just one person.  To see the the end result (a near perfect event in this case), it makes me appreciate each and every individual component that contributed to the success.

Each member of my team contributes in a very unique and profound way that, until the final piece is placed, is very hard to appreciate.  A cohesive team, regardless of individual background/ personal baggage/ personality conflicts, comes together for the success of a common goal.  I could not be any happier with my team and the way everyone pulls together each component to ensure success at anything placed before them.  Each and every person gave 100% and the end result certainly reflects that.  I am honored to be part of such a wonderful group of individuals.



Spring Vegetable Napoleon with Fresh Mozzarella.  Micro Greens, Smoked Tomato Coulis and Parmesan-Thyme Crisp



Trio of Dessert Mousse.  Fresh Raspberry, Meyer Lemon and Valhrona Chocolate.  Edible Orchid.



A Feast for the Senses



 

On June 2, my crew and I will be taking part in a very special performance featuring David Cain and Paul Wertico. Good Food, even better music...can't beat it. The menu is below. I hope to see you there!

First
Pepper Glazed Shrimp with Plantains
Coriander Leaf Oil and Pineapple Gastrique

Second
Napoleon of Spring Vegetables with Parmesan-Thyme Crisp
Micro Greens and Smoke Roasted Tomato Coulis

Third
Pork Collaborative ‘3-way’
Char-Grilled Tenderloin, Braised Belly
and Tasso-Port Reduction
Served atop Fresh Corn Griddle Cake
Sautéed Greens, and Pepper ‘Confetti’

Fourth
Shots of Assorted Dessert Mousses
‘Dreamsicle’, Tahitian Vanilla Bean, Dark Chocolate,
Meyer Lemon and Raspberry

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This evening my crew and I got to use some new buffet pieces!  Clear acrylic trays that sit on metal stands.  The trays have holes drilled in them and hold a wooden 'cone' which the guests can pick up.  We filled it with Fresh Mozzarella, Fig and Roasted Pepper Bruschetta topped with Micro Greens.  Too Cool!

Culinary Foundations: Menu Writing 101

I have a love/hate relationship with menu writing.  I love writing menus for all the obvious reasons such as the creative outlet the act of writing an interesting menu provides.  Ironically, I hat writing menues for the very same reason...sometimes, I just dont feel very creative. 

At this point in my career, I dont write every menu that one of my kitchens prepares.  Most of my managers are capable of writing a perfectly acceptable menu and my catering operation has a portfolio of menus and combinations that I wrote to choose from without my constant involvement.  If a menu project hits my desk, there are usually outside reasons;  the client has special requests, we need to really pull out the big guns to impress or, all too frequently, we have a menu that is distressed in some way and needs to be repaired. 
I write or review many different styles of menus daily.  While each style of menu (a cycle menu for a cafeteria, ala carte menu, catering banquet menu, etc...) carries a different set of parameters for success, they all carry similar general rules.  A few of these rules are:

• A menu must be balanced in all ways.
• A menu must be seasonally appropriate. 
• A menu must incorporate as many different cooking styles and preparation methods.
• A menu must fit into the financial parameters of the system.

I take particular joy in writing hors d'oeuvres menus.  I enjoy the challenge of balancing the different textures and preparation methods required of a good menu.  For me, writing a menu that is 'fork optional' is also a fun component.  When writing an hors d'oeuvre menu, it is often easier to write a menu with themed stations.  This allows you to mentally seperate some of the dishes and not worry so much about each and every item being perfectly in sync with the other since there will be actual physical seperation of the stations.

Here is a menu I wrote for an upcoming event.  Starting tomorrow, I will be helping to prepare this menu and I'm sure I will have some pictures to post along the way.  For now, take a look at the menu and tell me what you think. 

Eastern Seaboard

Goat Cheese and Fire Roast Tomato Ravioli
Simmered in a Lightly Smoked Tomato-Vodka Cream Sauce

Vermont White Cheddar and New York Baby Swiss Display
with Fresh Raspberries and Spiced Pecans, Served with Sliced Artisan Breads

Traditional Fresh Lobster Roll with Fresh Tarragon
Served on Soft Buttercrust Roll

Canape of Fresh Lump Crab and Spring Tomato Salad
with Fresh Chives

Midwest Bounty

Kansas City Style Smoked Beef Brisket, Carved to Order
Molasses BBQ, Petite Rolls and Hand Cut Slaw

Crispy Pork Belly Canape
Served with Maytag Blue Cheese

Fresh Corn Cake with Spring Onion Jam and Fresh Asparagus
Spring Baby Vegetable Display
with Grilled Pepper Dip

Pacific Coast

Cedar Smoked Salmon Display

Pickled Red Onions, Sesame Flatbreads and Grain Mustard Aioli

Fresh Artisanal Brie Drizzled with Napa Valley Pinot Reduction

Crisp Sesame Flatbreads

Orrechiette Pasta Tossed Tableside with Farmers Market Vegetables
and Fresh Herb Pistou

Bruschetta of Roasted Fig, Sweet Pepper,
Fresh Mozzarella and Baby Greens
Served with San Francisco Sourdough Crostini

Sweet Endings

Premium Dessert ‘Shots’
Custom Made Chocolate Shot Glasses Filled with Assorted Cremes,
Fruit Purees and Mousse

Assorted Truffle Lolipops

Salted Caramel with Dark Chocolate, Champagne with Dark Chocolate

Key Lime with White Chocolate, Toasted Coconut with Milk Chocolate



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Creole Honey Mustard

I like this condiment, not because it has a real upfront honey taste like most honey mustard recipes (it doesn't) but due to the complex flavors of the shallots and green peppercorns.  This is a nice sauce for sandwiches and for fried fish..sure beats tartar sauce.

• 3T  shallots, small dice
• 3T  crushed green peppercorns 
• 1T  vegetable oil 
• 1tsp  black pepper 
• 2fl oz  Dijon 
• 6fl oz  Creole mustard
• 1C  mayo
• 1C  sour cream 
• 2fl oz  honey 
• 2ea  chipotles, steeped in a bit of white wine to soften and puree 
• 2T  chili powder  

Sweat shallots and peppercorns in the vegetable until just translucent.  Add wine and reduce to au sec (nearly all the liquid is evaporated).  Cool.  Add remaining ingredients and adjust seasoning.

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Healthier Backstage Fare

Having catered well over 100 individual concert performers over the last 15 years, many of which through my involvement with the Illinois State Fair, I find this article about concert performers eating healthier foods to be spot on.  Enjoy the the article.

Food Cooking: Gourmet.com


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Adversity

I've been toying with the idea of a posting about adversity for quite sometime. Not just the word in its most elemental form but the concept of adversity and how it shapes your life. And since I write predominately about food, I have struggled to tie the subject together in a cohesive manner.

It is safe to say that everyone faces their own adversity at some point (or points) in their life. That one defining moment when you realize that there is a lot riding on your next few actions and the correct decision is not the easiest one available.  As a chef or restaurateur, or anyone in the food service business really, you experience differing levels of adversity every day. Do you face the unhappy customer and admit that your product wasn't the best it could have been? Maybe you just learned that you had to pull a double because someone was too 'sick' to get to work...your feet are hurting so bad they throb and you will be hitting 50 hours in the first 3 days of your week.  While directing my first really large, all-or-nothing type of event here in Springfield, I was faced with a decision for action that, if incorrect, would have not only cost my job but most likely my career.  All I could do was make a decision, sit back and go with it.  I still have a picture of me sitting on the stairs of the venue, waiting for the outcome to materialize.

While these scenarios are certainly stressful and provide a certain opportunity to show your mettle, I am most impressed by the person who faces real adversity yet perseveres.  Sure, there are countless examples of people in history and on the news who have faced adversity but I challenge you to look a bit closer to home.  Study...really study your family members, living or otherwise, and I bet you will find true examples of a person who confronted that proverbial fork-in-the-road and prevailed.  I have opened my eyes a bit and have taken the time to study the people close to me and have been left with a great sense of amazement of the small, personal achievements that were hard fought yet go unnoticed.  Take a look around...you will find the same things I have...and your life will be better for it.


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Dinner From Last Night

When planning dinner, I usually eschew all things leftover.  Its not that I don't think they are tasty, I am just over it.  Leftovers are so yesterday (or the day before or the day before that).  However, when you have Chorizo, Potato and Goat Cheese Tacos the night before, all general precepts of leftover usage are out the window.

As anyone who knows me will attest, I am a sucker for ground meats.  Chorizo, the tasty sausage from Mexico or Spain (depending on whether it is cured or fresh, mostly) stands up there with things I love most...right behind my children and very much above my new dog is about where my love of chorizo sits.

Seeing as how I had bits of the taco fixings leftover from the night before, I decided to make a fritatta of Chorizo, Red Potato and Goat Cheese.  Unfortunately, I grew lazy and opted for a basic scramble instead of the fritatta.  Either way, it was tasty.

Vanishing Act

Its been a couple weeks since I last posted...not because I don't have anything to say, I just haven't been in the correct frame of mind to actually post something worth reading.  For me, posting to this site is as much an act of self-talk as it is the process of posting an occasional recipe.  You see, each and every recipe I post to this site conjures up certain feelings and memories that, for whatever reason, I have associated with the dish. 

Whenever I think of smoked meats, I not only reminisce about my stint as Sous Chef at the Norwich Inn (due to the giant smoker we had in the back) but I also am reminded of my life while living in Vermont.  The trials and tribulations of trying to make a career for myself along with having a wife in law school and two small children are forever embedded in my food memory of smoked brisket and house made sausages.  Its just how my brain is wired. 

The other possible reason for my lack of posting is that I have become relatively obsessed with researching my familial roots.  So much that I am often up way past midnight pouring through online records of family past, totally forsaking my need for general sleep.  Much like my waxing and waning obsessions with certain types of food, this genealogy thing has gotten a bit out of hand!

Nevertheless, I am on the back swing to food and it feels good.  A short diversion is all it took to get me back to the nature at hand.

Just in case you were wondering, I was able to make some connection, albeit rather vague, between my recent genealogy research and my cooking...with this picture of my late grandmother, Helen.  Maybe my two mini-obsessions will combine, perfect storm style, to form one
mega-obsession....foodealogy?

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Scallion Mayonnaise

I suspect that most people have never made mayonnaise from scratch.  I bet the odds are even less that most have not used potatoes in their mayonnaise.  I use this recipe in many ways but one of my favorites is to drizzle it over a salad of bitter greens tossed in balsamic vinaigrette with crispy fried calamari.  The combination of the acidic vinaigrette, the crispy savory calamari and the rich cooling of the mayo makes for a great day.

In case your wondering, the potato in this recipe helps to hold the emulsification of the mayo...its an old kitchen trick.  I use this method when I want to keep the consistency and not have to worry about my mayo separating.  By all means, you can omit the potato if you wish...doesn't really matter too much.

• 1/4 bunch of flat leaf parsley
• 1 bunch of scallions, diced
• 1 1/2 cup of canola oil
• 1oz of roasted garlic
• 3 egg yolks, I like to use pasteurized yolks for safety reasons if feeding this to a group
• 1 each lemon juice
• 1/2 of a medium Yukon Gold potato, cooked, chilled, then peeled
• salt and freshly ground pepper

Using a blender, blend the parsley, scallions and oil to a fine puree.  In a food processor, puree the egg yolks, potato, garlic and a tablespoon or so of water until pureed.  Add the lemon juice then drizzle the scallion oil into the processor bowl and puree until well combined and relatively smooth.  Chill for service.

Basil Buttermilk Dressing

With our recent run of record high temperatures in the Springfield area, I feel like my mind skipped directly to summer type dishes.  One of the flavors (actually smells, I like the smell better than taste) I look forward to most is fresh basil.  Luckily, fresh basil is easy to grow in your window sill or to purchase.  I'm not exactly sure where I first came across this recipe for Basil Buttermilk Dressing, perhaps it was the Hanover Inn.  Either way, I really like it drizzled over tender bibb lettuce or first cuttings of red and green leaf lettuces. 

• 1 pint of buttermilk
• 1 quart mayo
• 1 large bunch of fresh basil, picked of most of the stems
• 1/2 large bunch of mint, stems removed
• 4T Dijon mustard
• salt and fresh ground black pepper

Place all the ingredients into a blender and process until the herbs are finely chopped and well combined.  Chill for service.

Pickled Fennel and Smoked Mackerel Salad

Even though its a little early in the season for fennel and a tad late for smoked fish (seasonally anyway), this dish reminds me of spring.  Perhaps I like this salad BECAUSE the ingredients straddle the season so well...maybe its due to my undying love of smoked meats.  Either way, I'm sure you will find this to be a nice first course or perhaps a perfect light lunch.

• 2 cups rice wine vinegar
• 4T sugar
• 2T salt
• 3T pickling spice
• 3 bulbs of fresh fennel, shaved on a slicer or sharp mandolin...the thinner the better
• 1/2 cup chopped parsley
• 1 1/2 lb of smoked mackerel, I like Ducktrap brand.  Peppered is my favorite.

Combine the rice vinegar, sugar, salt and pickling spice in a small pot.  Bring to just a boil.  Strain the hot liquid over the shaved fennel, toss to combine and then cool to room temperature.  Drain any excess liquid from the now pickled fennel and toss with the parsley.  Chill.

With your fingers gently flake the smoked mackerel onto a plate.  The exact size of the flakes of the fish is really up to you but I like large pieces for both mouth texture and presentation purposes.  

Place a tight pile of the pickled fennel onto the center of the plate.  Scatter about 3 oz of the fennel throughout the plate.  Drizzle with some extra virgin olive oil if you have it.

Culinary Foundations: Dry Heat vs. Moist Heat Cooking

In both professional and personal situations, I am often asked about the appropriate ways to cook a particular item.  My first questions invariably center around the obvious;  what are you cooking, how does the product look, what type of cooking apparatus do you have, etc...  My next questions may be slightly less obvious but just as important;  what appearance are you looking for, what is the final flavors you desire, what else are you serving.  All of these considerations are very important in deciding the most appropriate method to cook a particular item.

There are two predominate cooking methods of cooking.  Your chosen method will vary depending on the type of food cooked and the desired outcome.  Generally, with the exception of braising (my personal favorite) you will choose either dry heat cooking or moist heat cooking method. 


Dry Heat Cooking
The dry heat cooking method, at the most elementary level, involves cooking a food item in the absence of a liquid. In dry heat cooking, heat transfer to the product takes place through a dry medium such as air, direct metal or stone, cooking oil (explained in a bit) or directly in the flame.  Examples of dry heat cooking are:

• roasting/ baking
• grilling
• broiling
• sauteing
• deep frying
• and pan frying. 

In order for dry heat cooking to be effective, you generally want a temperature above 300 degrees.  This will allow a process called Maillard Reaction (caramelization of the proteins and amino acids in meat, caramelization of natural sugars and starches in vegetables) to occur and will give your product a nice color and aroma.  Dry heat cooking is best suited for cuts of meat that are less tough and do not require a liquid to help break down the muscle fibers for tenderness.  Dry heat will help to evaporate any water in the product and concentrate the flavors.

One note about deep frying or cooking with oil is that this method of cooking is definitely a dry heat process.  Since oil is not water soluble, there is no transfer of liquid to the product and there is the opportunity for caramelization of the outside of the product.  Deep frying as a dry heat cooking method is, of course, predicated on cooking at the proper temperature...remember, above 300 degrees.  If you are cooking much lower than that, you are actually poaching the product in the fat and you have a much different dish altogether.


Moist Heat Cooking
Moist heat cooking utilizes a liquid as the medium for heat transfer.  This cooking method is usually performed with lower heat and over longer periods of time.  Remember from high school physics that water boils at 212 degrees (at sea level) and will not let the temperature rise above that point until all the liquid in the system has evaporated...212 degrees is the hottest the cooking liquid will get unless you put it under pressure.

The act of cooking with moist heat at moderated temperatures and extended time periods will result in a moister, more tender product...IF DONE CORRECTLY.  Proper temperature control of both the cooking medium and the actual product are crucial in cooking with moist heat.  Contrary to popular belief, is entirely possible to have a dry, tough product even if cooking in liquid.  To test this statement, take a chicken breast and boil it until the internal temperature of the chicken is 170 degrees, remove it from the liquid and let it cool a few minutes...dry chicken. 

Since moist heat cooking usually involves some sort of flavor transfer, it is best to make sure your cooking medium is tasty.  Flavor your broth well, fill your steaming liquid with aromatics and make sure you add plenty of other ingredients in your stew to ensure a tasty finished dish.

The most common moist heat cooking methods are:

• poaching
• simmering
• boiling
• steaming
• sou vide
• and braising.

Braising is actually a combination of dry and moist heat cooking and incorporates a brief initial browning of the meats for flavor and appearance then is followed by a low and slow cooking process to allow for maximum flavor transfer and tenderness....thus, my favorite way to cook!

I encourage you to test the different cooking methods to see how each procedure affects your finished dish.  If you learn a couple basic techniques in each method, your repertoire, versatility and confidence will be greatly increased.


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Vermont Crunchies--The Cookie

This last (hopefully) blow of winter has reminded me of my years in Vermont where the only thing predictable about the weather is that it could always snow.  Vermonters had a knack for making the best of any weather situation, especially the colder months.  As a result, it seems like all the baked goods and cold weather food items tasted that much better. 

As a young culinary student in Vermont, I was especially intimidated by the baking and pastry arts due to my utter lack of knowledge on the subject.  While I will save a description on the intricacies and science of the straight dough method or how to use fondant for a later post, I do want to share one my favorite cookie recipes I acquired as a student.  This recipe for Vermont Crunchies was most likely taken from one of my bakery instructors while I was a student at New England Culinary Institute, although I do not remember exactly who, so it is important that I do not take credit for its creation.  I will, however, take credit for bringing it to Springfield.  All of my baking recipes are scaled to be measured in weight ounces.  You will need a scale for this recipe.

• 10wt oz white sugar
• 1lb brown sugar, I like dark brown
• 8wt oz butter, softened
• 1.5lb crunchy peanut butter
• 6ea eggs
• 2tsp vanilla
• 4tsp baking soda
• 21wt oz oatmeal, not quick cooking
• 4wt oz chocolate chips
• 4oz pecans, chopped
• 4ox raisins, not those yellow ones!

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. 

In a large mixing bowl or a large stand mixer, combine both sugars and the butter.  With a mixer attachment, mix these ingredients until a smooth paste is formed and the ingredients are fully incorporated.  Add the peanut butter and combine again until fully mixed together.

Slowly add the eggs, one by one, into the sugar/ peanut butter mixture, combining fully each egg prior to adding another.  Add the vanilla at some point during this process as well.  Add the baking soda and oatmeal in one batch to the mixing bowl and combine with a rubber spatula until just incorporated.  Finally, fold in the chocolate, nuts and raisins. 

Scoop 2 Tablespoon (or whatever size you want) portions of the cookie dough onto a parchment lined cookie sheet.  Bake until the edges are slightly browned but the center of the cookie is still soft.  Remove from oven and cool completely. 

 

Savory Corn Pancake

For a reason I have yet to fully understand, today is National Pancake Day at IHOP.  Traditionally, Pancake Day, or Shrove Tuesday, is the last day before Lent and it was customary to eat pancakes to use up items that would be commonly be forbidden during lent (fat, eggs, sugar, etc...).  By natural extension of their everyday product, IHOP has generated a marketing extravaganza by offering free pancakes in return for a small donation to a variety of charities.  According to the IHOP website, nearly $8 million has been raised for charity since 2008.

All this advertising for free pancakes have got me thinking about my favorite pancakes.  Since breakfast has already passed (or should have), I decided to post a recipe for a savory pancake to enjoy with dinner.  I like to serve this with grilled pork with roasted fruit or even creamed chicken would be tasty placed over these cakes.

• 1lb fresh or frozen corn, pureed to a rough consistency
• 3cups buttermilk
• 3ea eggs, separated yolks from whites
• 1bunch (maybe 6) scallions or green onions
• 1lb of all purpose flour
• 1/2lb cornmeal, I like medium grind personally
• 2T baking powder
• salt and fresh ground black pepper

In a large mixing bowl, combine all the dry ingredients, corn included, until just combined.  In a medium mixing bowl, combine the buttermilk and egg yolks then gently fold the wet ingredients into the dry until just mixed together.  In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites until medium peaks are formed.  Gently fold the whites into the combined pancake mixture.

Preheat a griddle or non-stick pan to medium high heat.  Using a small bit of oil or butter, lightly grease the cooking surface and place 3oz of pancake mixture onto the surface.  Cook without disturbing until the edges begin to brown and small bubbles begin to appear, just like you would a standard breakfast pancake.  Gently flip the now formed corn cake and finish cooking.  Keep warm in a low oven, using a clean kitchen towel to cover them.  Continue until all the batter is used.

Culinary Foundations: Brining

The act of brining a product as a means of preservation has been around for thousands of years.  Most commonly used as a method of curing meats, nearly all societies utilized salt or salt solutions to preserve a wide range of products.  Meats, cheeses, vegetables and even some fruits can be brined for preservation and flavor enhancement.
Brining is different from other forms of preservation or flavor enhancement such as the commonly confused marinating or pickling in many ways.  Before moving forward, to briefly describe these very different processes:

• Marinating:  The act of marinating (verb) a product with marinade (noun) is to introduce a flavor component to your product.  Generally, the marinade is composed of a fat (flavor carrier), an acid such as lemon juice or wine for denaturing the proteins in the meat for a bit of tenderizing action, and some sort aromatic such as herbs, peppercorns, etc...for flavor.  Marinating a product does not generally prolong the shelf life in any real discernible way.
• Pickling:  Pickling a product generally preserves by decreasing the pH level of a product to a safer level for storage.  This is accomplished by introducing an acid such as vinegar as well as  flavor components such as herbs, peppercorns and even sugar to achieve the desired results.  It is believed that pickling was first introduced in India 4000 years ago.
• Brining:  There are two predominate forms of brining a process with very different results...dry brining and wet brining.  Dry brining is used primarily for preservation.  Dry brining can simply be rubbing the outside of a product with salt.  This is often called curing.  Many meats and seafood are preserved in this fashion.  Wet brining is the process in which a salt water solution is used to introduce additional moisture into a product...usually a meat...to increase the juiciness and palatability of a product.  The salt water solution acts to denature the proteins in the meat and, by the very scientific process of osmosis, the end product is much juicier than than prior to brining...as long as the product is cooked correctly!

For applications other than outright preservation, most brines should offer a flavor component.  I like to also add a sugar of some sort to help to off-set the salt flavor, aid in the caramelizing of the meat and to aid in the flavor transfer of my brine.  This relatively easy method of improving a meat has only a few basic steps.  I start most of my brine recipes with this basic recipe.  This brine is particularly useful for pork or chicken. 

• 10wt oz brown sugar
• 8wt oz kosher salt
• 12 ea juniper berries, crushed in half
• 10 garlic cloves, crushed
• 3T white peppercorns
• 3T black peppercorns
• 6 ea bay leaves
• 3T whole cloves
• 1 handful fresh thyme

 Combine all ingredients with one cup of warm water to dissolve the sugar and salt.  Rub the brine solution over the meat and place in a large bucket or pot.  Fill the container with cold water and cure for 36 hours.  After curing, rinse the meat with cold water, dry the outside of the meat with paper towels and prepare as you would normally.  DO NOT OVERCOOK.  While there is some added flexibility in cooking after brining, if the product is severely overcooked, you will still be left with a dry, tough piece of meat...making your brining activities for naught.

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Helen Catherine Martin

Last Wednesday, my family and I traveled to Chicago (a relatively nameless southwest suburb actually) to pay our respects to my grandmother.  Helen Catherine Martin died here in Springfield on Saturday, February 18, 2012 after living a long, productive and by some accounts, difficult life.  Widowed in 1972, Grandma Martin raised 7 children on her own ranging from 20 years old to merely 10 (or so).  Born and raised in Chicago, she later lived in St. Paul, Minnesota, San Diego, California (where she worked at Sea World at 70), and Leesburg, Virginia before finally settling in Springfield at my parents home.

My parents welcomed my grandmother (my dad's mom) into their home in an effort to provide a place of comfort and care while she battled a litany of health conditions.  Through the generosity of my parents, many lives have been affected for the better.  Grandma's children were able to have their mother for a couple extra years, her grandchildren were able to accept her wisdom just a bit more (and, in my case, learn a little something extra about their own parents), and her great-grandchildren too were blessed to meet her.  Through the care my parents provided, I was given the opportunity get to know my Grandma and was able to spend time with her in ways I would not have otherwise been able.

She loved to watch CNN (Wolf Blitzer) and was very informed and opinionated in regards to American politics (she believed in change!).  A deeply religious person, Grandma Martin believed in God and saw the good in all humanity.

Grandma Martin touched the hearts of many.  Surviving her are 2 brothers, 7 children, 18 grandchildren and 15 great-grandchildren (so far).  Helen Catherine Martin (Clifford) will be missed deeply.  Thank you for being part of our lives.  Rest in Peace.

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Black Coffee-Chipotle BBQ Sauce

This was a recipe I made while working on a menu for a local coffee distributor.  My client wanted the entire menu to be centered around their products but wanted it to be used in unusual ways.  I dont remember at this point exactly what meats this sauce was used on but I would suggest grilled pork tenderloins.  Sounds good to me.

• 1 cup minced white onion
• 2T chopped garlic
• 1T butter, I always use unsalted
• 1/4 cup sherry vinegar
• 2 dried chipotle peppers
• 1 ancho pepper
• 1 cup black coffee
• 1.2 cup tomato puree
• 1/3 cup molasses
• salt and fresh ground black pepper

Sweat the onion and chopped garlic in the butter until just starting to turn clear.  Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for 20 minutes or so.  Puree the ingredients in a blender or use an immersion blender.

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BBQ Sauce

I am a big fan of a good BBQ Sauce.  From a traditional tomato based concoction to the vinegary-sweet combinations of a Carolina sauce.  I have written similar posts such as a recipe for Jamaican Rum BBQ Sauce as well as Dry Rub and Mopping Sauce for Brisket.  Here is a recipe I have used many times both as a base for more complex sauces as well as a stand alone sauce.

• 1 pint of chopped onions
• 1 cup of chopped garlic
• 2T dry mustard
• 1 cup soy sauce
• 1 qt ketchup...use my recipe for Homemade Catsup if you want to really go crazy
• 7 cups tomato fillet or diced tomatoes
• 1 qt orange juice
• 1 pt molasses
• 3 bay leaves
• 1 cup cider vinegar
• 4 ancho chili peppers (these are dried poblano peppers)
• 4 dried chipotles
• salt and fresh ground black pepper

In a large stock pot or sauce pan, sweat the onions and garlic in a bit of oil until just soft.  Add the rest of the ingredients and simmer for 1 hour.  Cool the sauce for a bit and then puree in a blender or use an immersion blender.  Cool the sauce further and refrigerate until ready to use.  As with most of my recipes, this will make plenty to use as you wish.

Next Post Continuing with the Trend:  Black Coffee-Chipotle BBQ Sauce

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Food Porn



Here is a bit of homegrown food porn to feast your eyes on while I am busy with an event.



Pan Seared North Atlantic Salmon with Fresh Vegetable Slaw, Wilted Baby Spinach and Red Pepper Coulis 





Stacked Shrimp Appetizer with Fresh Herbs and Roasted Pepper Coulis

Enjoy!

Valentines Day at Hickory Glen

If anyone asked me when I was a young chef if I ever envisioned myself being involved in any way with a retirement or nursing home setting I would have given a resounding NO.  I was too 'good' to be cooking at a facility like that!  It didn't provide enough creative outlet...not prestigious enough.  If someone were to ask me NOW if I could ever be involved, culinary-wise, with a retirement or nursing home setting, my answer would sure be different. 

Sure, there are many elder care facilities that, by necessity, serve a type of food that the general population would tend to overlook.  However, after viewing the food offerings of a multitude of 'retirement facilities', I can say with great confidence that we can do much better.  All too often I hear that residents who live in these facilities won't like something, they don't try new things, or they don't like a lot of flavor.  In my opinion, the people who keep these stereotypes are not even trying.  They view cooking in a facility like this to be an opportunity to NOT innovate, NOT care about plate presentation and generally NOT care.  On the contrary, I believe the unique challenges involved with serving an ageing population provides the absolute opportunity to be innovative in menu design to please a very diverse population, meet stringent financial goals and to still provide a nice dining experience.  Just because someone reaches 65 (or 85 or 95 or older...) does not mean that he doesn't want nicely prepared food with proper texture and flavor.  As a population, we can definitely do better.

This upcoming Valentines Day, I have the honor of being the guest chef at Hickory Glen Active Senior Living.  I have cooked for this group before and am always welcomed with gratitudes and good will.  While I keep the demographics of the group in mind, I do not dumb down the menu or preparations.  In fact, it is more important offer a wide range of strong flavors and textures to ensure people with compromised abilities are interested.  I always look forward to cooking for a group such as this and, with it being Valentines Day, I anticipate this event to be even more enjoyable.

I don't have all the recipes worked out quite yet, some of them will come as I prepare the actual dishes, but here is the menu.  Enjoy!

Hickory Glen Italian Bistro Night

Roast Beet Salad with Baby Greens
Crumbled Chevre and Balsamic Drizzle

Oregano Infused House made Meatball over Fresh LinguineRustic Tomato Sauce and Parmesan Tuille
Pan Roasted Chicken Breast Stuffed with Prosciutto, Baby Spinach and Pecorino

Sage Brown Butter Sauce
Fresh Linguine with White Clam Sauce

Grilled Scallions and Drizzled with Italian Parsley Pistou

Italian Roasted Parmesan Potatoes
Julienne Fresh Vegetables Sauteed with Fresh Herbs and Roasted Garlic
Caramelized Brussels Sprouts with Slow Roasted Roma Tomato Confit
House made Focaccia Bread

Traditional TiramisuShaved Chocolate 

Alehouse Chili for Game Day

The upcoming Super Bowl is a great time to bring family and friends together.  I know this isn't the typical tavern style chilli (chili?--I still get the spelling mixed up even though I am from Springfield) but I am fairly certain you will enjoy this recipe.  Nice heat, balanced spice profile, hint of beer...its all there.

• 1 pint of good beer, your choice...I like Fat Tire
• 1T dried oregano
• 3T chili powder
• 4tsp cumin
• 4tsp coriander
• 2 chipotles en adobo (the canned chipotles), ground
• 1 1/2 medium onions, small dice
• 5lbs ground beef
• 2T chopped fresh garlic
• 1 poblano pepper, diced
• 7 cups tomato fillets or diced tomato
• 7 cups cooked kidney beans (canned beans are fine but do rinse them)
• 6 cups beef broth
• 1.5 cups tomato paste
• 2T Tabasco sauce
• 4tsp sugar
• 1lb fresh or frozen corn

In a small sauce pan, simmer the beer, oregano, chili powder, cumin, coriander and chipotle for 20 minutes.  Set aside.

In a large stock pot, brown the ground beef, onions and garlic until cooked through.  Do not drain the fat from the pot.  Add the reserved simmered beer and all remaining ingredients except for the Tabasco and corn.  Simmer for 1 hour or until the flavors have begun to meld and the chilli has begun to thicken.  Add the Tabasco and corn and simmer for 20 minutes more.

As with all chilli, this recipe improves by cooking it the day before and reheating just before service.  Either way, serve this hearty stew with plenty of cheese, tortillas, corn bread or whatever else you like.

Dry Rub and Mopping Sauce for Brisket

With the weather being so unseasonably warm, I have started to think of my new patio and BBQ grill.  One of my favorite BBQ item is a nicely slow smoked beef brisket.  Smoked meats of all kinds interest me but brisket reigns supreme for me.  The process of transforming an otherwise tough and inedible cut of meat into something as great as a good smoked brisket makes me happy.  Besides...how else can you use terms like bark (the crust a long smoked meat), smoke ring ( the red hued outer perimeter signifying good smoke penetration) or pellicle formation (air drying a meat long enough for the skin to become tacky to the touch, thus allowing the smoke to penetrate more freely)?

This is my own personal recipe for a Dry Rub for Brisket.  Of course, this recipe makes way more than you need initially

1 cup kosher salt
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup chili powder
1 cup fresh ground black pepper
1 cup paprika
3/4 cup ground cumin
1/4 cup cayenne pepper
1/4 cup granulated garlic

Mix all the ingredients in a large dry bowl.  Dry a beef brisket with paper towels.  Generously rub the spice mixture onto the brisket, making sure plenty of the rub sticks to the meat.  Place the rubbed brisket in a refrigerator, uncovered, for 24 hours.

 I like to use a mopping sauce when smoking brisket.  This recipe helps to ensure proper bark (crust) formation and imparts a savory flavor to the meat.  Start basting the meat about 2 hours prior to finishing.

3T coffee grounds, tied in cheesecloth
1 1/3cup water
1quart catsup
12oz Worcestershire sauce
8oz unsalted butter

Simmer all the ingredients in a non-reactive saucepan until reduced by 1/4 volume.  Cool slightly then whisk in the butter until all is combined.  Finish cooling the mopping sauce and store until ready to use.  Approximately 2 hours prior to finishing the brisket, start basting the meat every 15 minutes or so.

Wondering why I didn't give instructions on how to properly smoke a brisket?  This You Tube video by BBQGuys.com really gives a thorough and wonderful description of how to properly smoke a brisket.  I've never tried it but their recipe for the brisket rub looks good too!  Enjoy!

 

Culinary Foundations: The Five Tastes

When I was a student at New England Culinary Institute, I took a class called Taste and Flavor.  This class, taught by a 30 something, very intense, Frenchman named Andre, explored the principles of the basic tastes found in foods and how to build upon them to make a flavorful dish.

The five tastes;  sweet, salty, bitter, sour and the slightly less descriptive, umami (the savory flavor that makes a dish feel full flavored or 'meaty'), all contribute greatly to the success of a particular dish.  For most dishes, even many desserts, each of these fundamental tastes must be present for the dish to be successful.  This perfect balance is represented in many dishes ranging from a perfectly braised Italian Pork Shoulder to the best grilled hamburger recipes.

Sweet:  Of course this taste is found in many sweetened desserts.  However, this taste is also found in nicely seared meats, caramelized onions, many savory sauces such as a gastrique, and often in Asian foods.

Salty:  Salt is a taste that is ubiquitous in a wide variety of dishes.  Without this briny taste being present, many dishes leave you with the feeling of an unfinished product...lacking depth and complexity.

Bitter:  This taste is the perfect foil for a sweet and sour vinaigrette.  Dark greens provide a wonderful bitter flavor.  Coffee, cocoa and many beverages which are commonly sweetened are often bitter.  Bitter represents a food that is alkaline and often benefits from an acidic foil for balance such as spinach cooked with a splash of malt vinegar.

Sour:  Sour foods tend to 'liven the taste buds' by neutralizing the fats laying on the tongue.  Many fruits are sour, and make a great base for a palate cleanser.  Sour foods tend to be paired with fattier foods (sauerkraut with sausages, vinegar sprinkled on deep fried items).

Umami:  Umami often used to describe a taste containing a savory or meaty dish.  Of course many meats have a high level of umami buts so do mushrooms, soy based products, and shellfish.  This taste often provides that feeling of a mouthwatering, coating sensation over the tongue.

When preparing your next family meal, ask yourself if its a balanced dish.  Does your cream soup taste a little flat?...add a squeeze of lemon juice or vinegary Tabasco Sauce to bring out the flavors.  Next time your pot roast is missing the complexity of a world class dish, start your dish by browning the meat to caramelize the natural sugars in the dish.  Its all about balance.  Don't be afraid to practice with your dishes keeping these flavors in mind.  You will be pleasantly surprised.

Tuscan Rubbed Chicken

There was a recent article in the SJ-R about the wonderful Chicken Pot Pie available from Cafe Moxo titled Comfort Food.  You can view the article here.  It was a very nice article about a local chef/restaurateur couple and their now famous comfort dish.

This article got me thinking about what foods I find comforting and what that means to me.  To me, comfort foods evoke a memory of not just a well prepared meal (which certainly helps) but it must also connect the food on another level.  Did you mom always prepare chicken noodle soup when you were sick?  Maybe taco night was every Friday and your family would sit around the table after dinner playing board games.  Comfort foods are very unique to your own history and encompass your combined memory in many ways other than remembering just a great meal.

For me, comfort food is somewhat elusive.  I tend to remember only the best time I had a particular dish...everything about that dish was perfect, in my mind.  I vividly remember, as a culinary student in Vermont, driving down a small country road and coming across a farm stand selling strawberries.  These tiny strawberries were the most perfect examples of the berry I have ever seen.  Ripe and red colored all the way through, these berries were the absolute best I have ever tasted before and since.  They were eaten before I even made it home.  I feel I have spent the better part of the last decade searching for these perfect berries with no other strawberry even coming close.  I'm sure I have had wonderful tasting berries since but my mind's eye tells me they do not compare.

Aside from a personal context of the food item, the dish must be tasty.  The common thread that allows a dish to reach comfort status is fresh, recognizable flavors that, when combined create a memory that lasts.  This recipe for Tuscan Rubbed Chicken combines the traditional beauty of a perfectly roasted chicken with bold yet recognizable flavors.  While there are a few more steps to this dish than just plain roasted chicken, the steps will be worth it.  As with most of my recipes, you should have enough of this rub to last a few meals.  Freeze the unused portions for another use.

• 3 medium onions, large chopped
• 1/2 cup tomato paste
• 2 bunches of fresh parsley
• 4 bay leaves
• 3 lemons, juiced and zested
• 1 cup of balsamic vinegar
• 1 cup olive oil
• 4T cumin seed
• 4T coriander seed
• 4T black peppercorns
• 2tsp ground cinnamon
• 2tsp ground nutmeg
• 1 head of roasted garlic cloves

Blend all the ingredients in a food processor until a relatively smooth paste is formed.  Transfer the paste to a large sauce pan and cook the rub over medium heat until reduced slightly and the raw onion taste and smell is gone.  Chill the rub completely before using.

Generously coat a roasting chicken with the rub.  Feel free to use a lot of the rub and make sure you have the seasoning completely coating the chicken.  Place the chicken in the refrigerator, uncovered, for at least 2 hours.  Roast the chicken breast side up in a 350 degree oven until the internal temperature of the bird is 165 degrees.  Remove from the oven and flip the bird onto the breasts to rest for 10 minutes.  Cut and serve with whatever accompaniments that make you feel comfortable.

Culinary Foundations: Knives and Knife Skills

When cooking a dish, just as when you are building any other item from scratch, you have to master a basic set of skills before you attempt to produce more complex methods.  Knowing the basics of cooking will greatly increase your confidence in the kitchen and will provide you and your guests a much safer environment.

I see most home cooks and many young (and not so young) chefs with poor knife skills.  I'm not referring to the knife skills used to make a perfect tourne potato or consistently cut julienne carrots, I am talking about the basics.  Proper basic knife skills is essential to not only professional chefs but also home cooks.  Your finished product will be of higher quality and the cooking experience will be more enjoyable due to higher efficiency and less injuries.  Take the time to learn some basics.  There are many great tutorials on the web such as this YouTube video from Cheftomm.

There are many different knives available on the market today.  Admittedly, I personally own upwards of 40 knives.  However, except for the most complex of operations, you really only need a few basic knives.  I use these four basic knives both at home and in a professional setting:

Chef's Knife-I use an 8'' Wustof Grand Prix knife.  This is a high quality professional knife that, with proper care, will last for years.  My Wustof knife is at least 10 years old.  Most people, especially macho young chefs, buy those 12 and 14 inch swords available and it is just too big.  A knife like that is harder to control and dangerous for all but the most skilled and larger chefs.  Put your pride away and go with an 8'' knife.

Bread/ Serrated Knife-Purchase a serrated knife that has relatively smooth serrations to ensure you have more control and a finer cut.  In my opinion, knives with really pointed and deep serrations are harder to control and tear the product...especially crusty breads.  This knife can also be used for slicing tomatoes or other products with soft skins and even softer flesh.

Paring Knife-Most people only need one size of paring knife.  The best paring knife for you will feel balance when holding it.  You will use this knife a lot so it needs to feel good.  Choosing the right paring knife is a personal decision that should not be taken lightly.

Boning Knife-I use a relatively cheap Victornox boning knife for a couple reasons.  Most importantly, I like the way it feels in my hand.  Secondly, it is easy to sharpen due to the relatively soft metal used in production (a boning knife needs to be very sharp) and the blade is incredibly flexible.  Regardless of the knife you choose, I suggest a knife no longer than 6 inches with a relatively thin, narrow blade.  I like a very flexible blade for this type of knife but this is a personal preference...As you gain skill, you may want to consider going with a more flexible knife.  I also keep a relatively stiff bladed knife for more robust applications where I might need a bit more leverage.

There are many, many different knives available that you may have the occasional use for but you should get by just fine in a kitchen if you manage the various uses of the above listed knives.  Who knows, maybe one day, I will use that 14'' scimitar knife I bought years ago.

Oven Dried Tomatoes...bruschetta too

I recently received a request to provide a recipe for Bruschetta Chicken.  Knowing that I dont have a specific recipe for what most people would identify specifically as Bruschetta Chicken, I remembered that I do have a recipe for Oven Dried Tomatoes.  I use the tomatoes that result from this recipe in numerous applications.  You have to be very patient with this recipe as you cannot rush the finished product.  Low and slow is the way to approach the cooking process but the end result will be a full flavored, versatile tomato that is great for added flavor in soups, sauces, relishes and even breads.

• 5 lbs plum tomatoes, cut in half from top to bottom
• 1oz balsamic vinegar
• 1oz extra virgin olive oil
• 4T chopped fresh thyme
• 4T chopped fresh parsley
• 2T chopped fresh garlic

Preheat oven to 250 degrees.  In a large bowl, toss all the ingredients to combine well.  Place the tomato halves on a sheet pan, skin side down.  Bake in the oven for approximately 3 hours.  You want to cook these until they are nearly dehydrated but not burned or totally dried out.  Bake them as long as your nerves will allow.  Cool completely prior to packaging these tomatoes.  Store in the fridge.

In colder months, I would absolutely use these tomatoes to make a rustic, more seasonally appropriate Bruschetta that would go great over a Pan Seared or Grilled Chicken Breast.  I would let the taste of the tomatoes guide me ultimately but would most likely start with a basic recipe for Oven Dried Tomato and Smoked Mozzarella Bruschetta similar to this:

• 1lb cooled Oven Dried Tomatoes, you can roughly chop them if you want but I think it would be cool to leave them the size they are.
• 8oz good quality smoked mozzarella, large diced
• 6 cloves of roasted garlic, smashed to a paste
• 2oz balsamic vinegar
• 1oz extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup of basil leaves, cut into chiffonade
• 1/4 cup of chives, cut into 1-inch sticks
• 1/4 cup of flat leaf parsley, chopped fine
• 1/4tsp of red pepper flakes
• kosher salt and a few cranks of fresh ground black pepper

Gently toss all the ingredients in a large bowl until just combined.  You want to keep the integrity of all the ingredients so toss gently.  Let the flavors meld for a few hours before you use.  If topping Grilled Chicken, place a good portion on the chicken a few minutes before it is cooked through.  Finish in a hot oven or under a broiler until the cheese is melted.

Good Luck!  Let me know how it works out!